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African Textiles & Wall Hangings – Making Their Way To The World Market

African-textiles-anlo-weave-kente-cloth

Anlo Weave Silk Kente Cloth

A vast continent, rich in history, culture and natural resources, Africa remained largely unexplored for several centuries; the whole area south of the Sahara remained a mystery until the 1800’s.

Today, Africa is a continent in transition. After being dominated by foreigners for the past several sad centuries Africa has in the recent past made huge strides towards creating a better destiny for its people.

Improving Lives with Art

Beautiful Kente Asase Special African Handbag (these support real African communities)

Beautiful Kente Asase Special African Handbag (these support real African communities)

Various African countries are trying to provide their population with opportunities to earn a living. Some of the most amazing leaps have been as a result of the Internet. African art, textiles and other products are readily available on the Internet. The interest and response to African wares has been tremendous. With the immense surge in collectability of African art and new markets for African textiles, some African areas are beginning to see improvement in their lives.

The Origin & Evolution of African Textiles

African textiles have a fascinating history. Originally animal hair was used to weave textiles for warmth and protection. Later it was animal hair along with fiber from plants and trees that was woven into clothing, bedding, and wall or window hangings. Much later, when textiles had become quite refined, they were used as trading currency. Ancient weaving ways and designs are still in use today and are important parts of African life. Handmade looms are handed down through families from generation to generation.

Traditionally African textiles were worn tied or draped depending on the occasion. Now, with the huge interest in African textiles from the rest of the world, handmade fabric and textiles are being cut and made into clothing and home furnishings such as pillows or wall hangings. Most textile experts recommend that if you are ever fortunate enough to possess a rare or fragile authentic African textile you should have it professionally mounted and protected as a wall hanging (or auctioned off – they can fetch quite tantalizing prices).

The Significance of Color in African Textiles

BRIGHT Tamale Weave Silk Kente Cloth

BRIGHT Tamale Weave Silk Kente Cloth

Colors have different significance to different cultures and even different villages within a culture. The color red is a great sample of a cultural variation. In some areas of Nigeria, red is a badge of accomplishment where in other areas it is a color worn by the chieftain to protect him from evil. Red is the color of burial clothes in Madagascar and is used in mourning robes by the Akan tribe in Ghana. One color… so many interpretations.

Weaving Techniques in African Textiles

Within Africa the methods of weaving and materials vary widely. Strip weaving is widely used in West Africa. Strips about 4” wide are woven in various lengths and then joined together for an almost quilt like appearance. Adinkra cloth is still made in Ghana today. It is a textile made with wide panels of dyed cotton. These panels are beautifully hand embroidered and then stamped with carved calabash symbols.

Stunningly Beautiful Kente Bamboo African Handbag

Stunningly Beautiful Kente Bamboo African Handbag

Batik is an African textile that is made by using melted wax. First, a design is drawn on the textile. Then layers of color are applied atop each other. Wax is poured onto areas of the design after each dye procedure to retain certain colors. When complete the wax is boiled off to leave a beautiful array of color. The Senufo people of Ivory Coast make a textile called Korhogo. This textile is made in 5” strips and painted with mud to create images of animals, men and ceremonies. Textiles are augmented by stenciling, dyeing, painting, embroidery and hand-stamping. Soil is often the basis of the paint with dyes made of natural plants such as herbs, bark and leaves.

In addition to improving the lives of many Africans, making African textiles available to the world exposes us to the stunning beauty of indigenous African textiles!

How African Baskets Changed The World

~ Every Grain Of Rice Tells A Story;
Every Weave Of The Basket – A Labor Of Love

African basket making is a tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation through the centuries.

handwoven-african-basket-darfur

Along with the art of basket making, the folklore surrounding it was also passed along from the elders to future generations during the many days and nights spent weaving baskets together. Unless you are a native African villager or are an African history enthusiast, the question of what African baskets and rice share in common may be a tough one to answer.

To learn the answer one must understand a little history of both African baskets as well as the history and evolution of African rice growing societies.

The Magnitude & Diversity of Basketry in Africa

Did You Know? There are approximately 800 separate and distinct ethnic groups in Africa.

Each of these groups has developed their own traditional designs for basket making determined in part by the use intended for the baskets, the materials available for weaving the baskets and the organic dyes available to decorate the baskets.

The huge diversity in shape, design, color and purpose of African baskets makes it almost impossible to pigeonhole African baskets into any one category.

African Baskets & Rice: The Connection

The history of African baskets and rice are forever intertwined. Africans basket makers originally made baskets to be functional. These baskets were used to fan rice and separate the grains from the dry, unusable chaff. They were also used to store the rice.

Every African tribe that raised rice developed their own distinctive methods and designs for making their rice baskets. African basket aficionados can take one look at an African basket and tell which area of Africa the basket came from and also, which ethnic group made it.

Check out the differences between these Zulu baskets and traditional Ghanaian nest baskets:

Tribal Baskets - Ghana Nest Baskets Traditional African Baskets - Zulu Baskets


Rice & Baskets; Baskets & Rice

Rice has been grown is Africa for 3500 years around the Niger River delta and extending into modern day Senegal. When the Arabs came into Africa between 700-1100AD they brought with them some different species of rice that could be grown other areas of Africa, mainly in Southern Morocco. The Arabs are generally credited with bring rice to the whole region which stretches from Lake Chad to the White Nile.

As the cultivation of rice spread to various areas of Africa, so did the making of baskets to fan, store and market the rice. Originally designed for utilitarian purpose, the African basket became ornamental as well as functional as time passed. The basket makers took great pride in their work and made beautiful baskets to celebrate their heritage. This skill was passed from generation to generation both to assure an adequate supply of fanning and storage baskets as well as to celebrate one’s ethnic affiliation.

The Dark Side of African Basketry & Rice

A dark side to this rice and African basket relationship involves the American slave trade. With rice being the main cash crop of the state of South Carolina in the colonial period, Africans that were native to rice growing regions were the first targets of the slavers.

For Africans from West African rice regions (Senegal to the Ivory Coast) and the area surrounding the mouth of the Congo River (Angola, Gabon and Zaire) slavers received a premium price. A woman or man capable of making baskets was worth more than any other slave regardless of their age or strength. Enslaved Africans are credited with the success of the South Carolina rice industry since few South Carolinians knew anything about rice agronomy.

I guess you could say African basket making designs and techniques came to America in slave ships!

African Basketry Today

Today the making of African baskets has taken on a new role. The world-wide popularity of African baskets means traditional African basket weavers can earn a decent income and provide for their families.

African women face terrible economic disadvantage and uncertainty. Many African women have no education and no traditional marketable skills. However, they have found that they can retain their heritage and earn a fair wage at the same time by making baskets for the world market. With the assistance of many humanitarian groups, most of these women produce baskets sold through markets regulated by Fair Trade standards. Fair Trade dictates that any goods sold with the Fair Trade endorsement must be produced by workers who receive a fair wage for there work. African women have benefitted greatly from this endeavor; they can afford the basics for their family such as food, education and health care.

The past as well as the future of rice and the African basket are intrinsically intertwined.

The African basket, which originated as a necessary functional device for cleaning, storing and marketing rice has today come full circle and is being used as a means of livelihood and a way of acquiring rice to feed African families.

You can check out some of the beautiful “modern” Zulu Basket designs (baskets designs from plastic telephone wire) at UncommonGoods.

South African Wire Baskets

Or if you’d like to support the more traditional African baskets being made (still today by black artists and ordinary villagers), I found some interesting stuff while I was looking for images at Novica.com, which apparently is the National Geographic store. It’s a lot more professional than UncommonGoods. (Uncommon is a proper art/gift site – made by people who love their product and hate web design, sadly it shows though.)


Traditional Zulu Baskets

Well that’s all for today folks. I’ll be back later in the week with a delicious piece on Authentic African Masks.

PS. Ok that’s not it. I was just searching for links. I found this brilliant and beautiful idea. I love the way you also get the artist’s take on the piece and where he comes from. It’s a recycled newspaper vase, called “Blossom Post”:

African Baskets - Recycled Newspaper Vase

…Alright, now we’re done.